Book Review: Underwear: Fashion in Detail

A few of my favorite books were published by the V&A (see my reference page).  This book is formatted in the same way (detailed drawing plus a close-up photo of the item) and covers underwear in all it's delightful and frightening complexity.  As always, the handwork is outstanding. The breadth of materials used is mind-boggling.   Following are some of the highlights:

lace-up stays

1) A corset cover of fine linen with Irish crochet work and tiny pin-tucks handmade by Queen Mary (sometime between 1885-95).  I guess when the politics was done for the day, even a queen had to think about her undies. Following the same theme, there are examples of Queen Victoria's drawers (with initials embroidered in).  I'm wondering, who thought to keep them...

handmade lace

2) Perforated iron stays (another name for corsets) from France (between 1600-1700) made for orthopaedic purposes (spinal problems).  This lovely and horrifying contraption is made from four plates of iron (yes, iron) with alternating square and round holes (decorative!) to reduce the enormous weight and is hinged at the sides. (bust 72 cm, waist 56 cm, front length 27 cm, back length 38 cm)

3) A leather 'Dermathistic' Corset (1883, used for exercise (and you thought your running bra was intense!).  Made from whalebone with leather facings and brass eyelet closures. (bust 73 cm, waist 56 cm, hip 80 cm) Quote for the day: "Women took up a variety of sports, including croquet, hockey, golf and tennis, in addition to  their more traditional outdoor activities in full day dress, including their corsets, and the common sight of bloodied corsets in tennis club dressing rooms testified to the pains of the active woman".  Yikes.