A bird's eye view

Most of the heads I make are animal heads.  Mammals are pretty straightforward, but the birds get a lot more attention.  I guess it's the beak.  Keep in mind that the process I describe below is idiosyncratic.  No-one taught me this, I experimented (with many failures!) until I found something that works for me.  I strongly suggest you do the same.  Use what you have to make the process your very own. 

The head I'm going to describe below is a swan head.  The first step is to have a good picture of the head for reference.  I prefer using drawings from bird identification books because the artist has skillfully accentuated the features that make the species unique.  It's like looking at caricatures - they all have eyes, noses, mouths, but the shapes have been exaggerated and you can instantly recognize each indiviual.

Sketch of a Tundra Swan

Sketch showing internal structure of head

Swans have large broad beaks and distinctive cheeks.  When making a bird, you can't just stick on a beak.  Well, at least I can't (not for lack of trying!).  So, my process begins with the beak.  Notice in the sketch above that the beak structure is embedded far inside the head.  It won't ever fall out or become loose.

Foam for top and bottom of beak

Trimming foam into a realistic shape

Beaks are made from two pieces of closed cell foam carved into shape.  I've tried using styrofoam and it doesn't work for a variety of reasons.  The main one is that you can easily squish a dent into the beak which won't ever come out - a very distressing look.  Closed cell foam is flexible, easy to cut, and leather binds well to it.  I buy it in large rolls from camping supply stores. 

Apply two coats of cemet to wrong side of leather

Apply cement to top and bottom of foam

I select a leather scrap that has the correct color and texture and coat it well with rubber cement.  Coat the foam with cement also.  Usually I'm coating the suede side of the leather, so it will require another coat of cement for good adhesion.  Allow both items to 'dry'.

Trim excess leather, leaving about 1/4" for wrapping

Cut notches and wrap leather snugly around edges

Carefully stretch and place the leather over the foam.  It will stick immediately even though neither side feels sticky.  You can reposition a little bit, but don't try more than twice- better to start over.  Trim the leather to size, clip excess around curves and form leather around the beak.

Finished beak with top and bottom glued together

Apply rubber cement to both inside surfaces of the beak, allow to dry and then cement the top and bottom together.  Everything should stick well.  If not, start over.  You many notice that the beak is huge.  Two things to think about.  First, a lot of the beak will be inside the head.  Second, I can never quite get the size right.  But, because I'm actually making more of a caricature than a perfect replica, the swan will look just fine when it's finished. The eye and brain work things out in my favor.

Applying glue to attach wool strips to beak

Layers of wool simulate flesh and bone

The next step begins the head construction. The basic method is to use layers of wool felt (I use old felted sweaters from Goodwill); do not use synthetic felts!  Wool felt is sturdy, firm, behaves in a predictable manner and is wonderful to sew.  A strip of felt is wrapped and glued over the beak creating a wool ball.  Over this ball, I layer strips and shapes to build up a head until it is slightly smaller than I need.  The final layers of fabric (usually wool, but in this case corduroy) will be sewn on to approximate the final colors of the animal.  Glass beads are used for eyes and can be sewn into the felt.  If necessary, needlesculpting can be used to add details.  

 

Outer fabric pinned over wool and ready for hand stitching

Completed head - it looks just like a Tundra Swan!