Agosia Arts is about celebrating the natural world, fine craft and conscientious recycling. My main goals with this blog are to : 1) provide a peek behind the scenes at how my work is produced; 2) document my problem solving process; and 3) encourage others to try new things. If you have questions, email me at email@example.com. Thank you for visiting!
May 30, 2016
Sewing Doll Sleeves For Maximal Movement
I never sew sleeves to the rest of the garment because this almost always leads to a decrease in the range of movement for the arm. Usually a sewn-in sleeve restricts the arm to being raised only halfway, both front and back. To address this issue, I separate the sleeve from the bodice completely. I've altered my patterns to include a bit of extra fabric along the shoulder and armsyce of the bodice - this creates a tiny extension into the arm. The sleeve pattern has a larger than normal cap head to create a bit more fabric around the shoulder joint. Neither of these changes is detectable visually (visit my Pinterest gallery for a look at some of the garments), but provides necessary coverage to hide the seam area. The two garment sections are sewn and lined in my usual manner (see previous post).
As you can see, full range of movement is available in the shoulder. Usually, the sleeve moves along with the arm, and if the tension of the gathers is correct, there is no additional friction because of the extra layers of fabric between body parts.
An added benefit of this technique is that you don't need to fuss with sewing the small curves of the armscye. You can design your jackets and shirts to have separate sleeves with gentle curves. Less hassle and faster to sew.
Give the technique a try and let me know how it works.
Next post, beadwork! Stay tuned...